Shkruan: Sami PIREVA
Zbulim i ri per Xhubleten Shqiptare dhe gjenezen e saj!
Xhubleta gjindet me ni lugine ne alpet e Frances qe quhet “VALLEE DES ARVES” ose “ARVAN VALLEY” ne Anglisht.
Kjo lugine rrethohet nga shume toponime te lidhuna me etnonimin e shqiptarve si per shembull: “Montricher Albanne, L’Arvan River, Albannette, etc.”
Eshte shum e habitshme qe kto toponime datojn mas pakti prej vitit 739 e.s.
Ndoshta duhet te jene shum ma heret se viti 739 e.s.
Prishtine, Dardani, 06/13/2018
Autori i hulumtimit per Xhubleten:
Xhubleta ne ‘Arvan Valley’ te Frances ma se pakti prej vitit 739!
In Fig. A1 – Fig. A7 we see the folkloric costumes worn by women from villages in the “Arvan Valley” (Vallée de l’Arve) of the Auvergne-Rhône-Alpes region of Savoie, France. The Auvergne name is derived from an ancient celtic tribe called the “Arverni.” This folkloric costume is famed for being distinct and unlike the other folkloric costumes from the region and other French folk costumes in general. This discontinuity with other French folk costumes suggests an external or different influence on the material culture.
In Fig. B1 – Fig. B7 we see the “Xhubleta,” the undulating, bell shaped dress worn by Albanian women. This is a distinctively Albanian dress and nothing approaching it in likeness or construction is worn by any other ethnic group in the Balkans, Europe, or its neighbouring continents. It is mostly worn in the Malesia e Madhe region of Albanian territories. The Xhubleta is constructed in a very specific way with archaic techniques and materials that have been used since ancient times. In youth, the Xhubleta is striped white and black, and becomes black in its entirety only once a woman marries. In some regions it is said that a red Xhubleta was worn on the wedding day. The Xhubleta is very heavy due to its thick woolen and felt construction and reaches up to 15-20kgs with all it’s ornamentation and component parts worn together. Other distinct features of the Xhubleta are the symbols that are woven into its striping, its apron, the shoulder pads/cinctures, the shoulder straps that carry it, the broad “hook” belt/panel that is worn over it, the cloth worn over the shoulders with hanging cinctures, “stockings” and symbols that code for social information about status, clan, village, etc.
If we compare the costumes and component parts that we see in Figures. A1 – A7 with those in Figrures. B1 – B7, we see that almost all of the Xhubleta’s distinct features have been retained in the costumes of the Arvan Valley, while replacing some archaic features and materials, adding pleats and losing the black and white version worn in youth (although the Arvan Valley dress also is different colored in youth). The bell shape of the dress is made by sewing strips on one after the other, each of which longer than the one before, make the garment wider and wider towards the bottom. In the Arvan Valley the strips have become finer while the Xhubleta has retained the more archaic form, with broad strips. Folkloric costume researcher Roman K. when analyzing the method of production of the Arvan Valley dress in his own words says:
“The only other example of this kind of skirt construction which I know of is the Xhubleta of Albania . . . Why these two unrelated, widely separated regions uniquely use this method of construction, I have no idea. ”
The distinct belt and style of apron has also been retained, while taking on more French characteristics with respect to ornamentation. The cloth with cinctures that is worn over the shoulders is likewise retained with only ornamental differences. The materials of the Xhubleta have been made lighter, although the Arvan Valley dress is still heavy, reaching up to 7kgs. Likewise aesthetic and stylistic features have been retained like the single coloured horizontal band in the adult dress. The process of making a Xhubleta is very difficult and meticulous, and takes more than 6 months to complete one dress, this seems to be the case with the Arvan Valley dress also.